🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.